Türkiye ile Yunanistan arasında kokoreç-kokoretsi savaşı
Türkiye ile Yunanistan arasında şimdi de ‘kokoreç-kokoretsi’ savaşı başladı. Türk medyasında “Yunanlar kokoreçi sahiplendiler” şeklindeki haberler, Atina’da büyük yankı yarattı.
Yunan haber siteleri, Türk medyasındaki Kokoreç ile ilgili haberleri “Şimdi de kokoretsi için kavga edeceğiz”, “Türkler, adalardan sonra kokoretsiye de göz dikti”, “Türk-Yunan mutfak savaşı”, “Türklerin, Yunan kokoretsisi için iştahları açıldı” şeklinde başlıklarla duyurdular. Atina’nın “Etçiler Mahallesi” olarak bilinen Vari semtinde, yıllardır “kokoretsi” pişiren Vasil usta, Yunan Skai televizyonuna “Kokoretsinin, kokoreç ile hiçbir ilgisi yok. İstanbul’a gittim ve kokoreçi tattım. Bizimkisi çok daha lezzetli.
BENZER LEZZETLER
Türkler sadece bağırsak kullanıyor. Biz ise bağırsağın içini ciğer, böbrek, uykuluk ve baharat ile dolduruyoruz” dedi. Yunanistan’da, kokoretsi porsiyonu 9-12 euro (160-250 TL) arasında değişiyor. Türk-Yunan ilişkilerinde “mutfak” önemli bir yer tutuyor. İki ülkenin mutfaklarında, kullanılan malzemeleri ve pişirme tarzları farklı olsa da cacık-caciki, imam bayıldı-imam baildi, köfte-keftes, musakka-musakas gibi pek çok “ortak lezzetler” bulunuyor.
KİM SAHİP ÇIKARSA ONUNDUR
Hürriyet Ekler yazarı Ebru Erke:
Yemekler çoğu zaman ortak coğrafyalara ait oluyor. Benzer coğrafyalarda benzer yemekleri farklı versiyonlarıyla görüyor olabiliyoruz. Bir yemeğe sahip çıkabilmek ve onu kültürünün içine alabilmek, tanıtabilmek çok önemli. Bir noktadan sonra kim onun öyküsüne, geçmişine, geleneğine saygı duyarsa ve bunu devam ettirirse o Yemek her zaman için o kültüre aittir. Bizde sokak yemeği denince kokoreç ilk 3 yemekten biri. Bir yemeğe kim daha çok sahip çıkarsa o yemek onlarındır diye düşünüyorum. Yani kokoreç Türkiye yemeğidir.
1883’TE KOKOREÇ TARİFİ VAR
Özyeğin Üniversitesi Gastronomi ve Mutfak Sanatları Bölüm Başkanı Doç. Dr. Özge Samancı:
Kokoreç, baklava, dolma, cacık gibi günümüzde Türk ve Yunan mutfaklarında bilinen ve uygulanan yemeklerin kökeni ortak bir tarihsel geçmişe dayanır. Osmanlı döneminde aynı imparatorluğun parçası olan günümüz Türkiye ve Yunanistan coğrafyalarında ortak bir mutfak kültürü oluşmuştur. Bu sebeple baklava ya da kokoreç gibi yapım tekniklerinde farklılıklar olsa da aynı yemekler günümüz milli mutfaklarında herkes için önem teşkil eder. Kokoreç ne sadece Yunan ne de Türk yemeğidir bu sebeple. Her iki coğrafyanın da yemeğidir. Yemek tarihi açısından yemeklerin kökenlerinin incelenmesi ise ayrı bir konudur.
Orta Asya Türk, Orta Çağ Arap, Bizans ve Selçuklu ve uzun Osmanlı dönemi mutfak mirasları günümüz Türk mutfak kültüründe yaşamaktadır. Kokoreç Türkçe bir kelime değildir. Nişanyan sözlüğüne göre Arnavut ağzında mısır koçanı anlamına gelen bir kelimeden türemiştir. Ancak bu etimolojik bilgi yemeğin hangi coğrafyaya ait olduğu bilgisini vermez. Osmanlı dönemindeki kelle, paça, pencevüş kebabı, mumbar, işkembe, ciğer kebabı satan esnafın ne zamandan itibaren kokoreç sattığına dair bilgimiz henüz yok. Ancak Osmanlı dönemine ait 1883’te İstanbul’da yayımlanan Ev Kadını adlı yemek kitabında kokoreç tarifine rastlıyoruz.
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